Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city is no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation do not want to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to learn these stories and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
