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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The accolade has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their humble restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.